Ramsey Electronics Universal Remote URC1 User Guide

UNIVERSAL REMOTE  
CONTROL  
Ramsey Electronics Model No.  
URC1  
Do you need to turn things on and off through your telephone or  
HAM radio? Do you need to remotely access repeaters, your  
cottage thermostat, or your home security lights? This is the kit for  
you! The URC1 is a Fully expandable system to control 64  
outputs, four variable voltage levels, two variable resistances, and  
three real time timers, all through DTMF tones! All of this with full  
password protection, comprehensive codes, and expandability!  
Six digit display for long codes  
Fast DTMF decoding time for automatic phone dialers  
Sensitive and accurate audio input for faint tones  
Tone feedback for confirmation of commands  
Full microprocessor control for ease of use  
Included are 15 switched outputs, 4 adjustable voltage outputs  
(0-5VDC), 2 digital pots, and 3 real time timers with on and off  
times adjustable from 10 ms to 40 hours.  
Two levels of password protection, with a master as well as a  
user password.  
Add our matching case and knob set for a finished "pro-look."  
Informative manual answers questions on theory, hook-ups and  
uses - enhances resale value, too!  
 
Ramsey Publication No. MURC1  
Price $5.00  
KIT ASSEMBLY  
AND INSTRUCTION MANUAL FOR  
URC1 UNIVERSAL  
REMOTE CONTROL  
TABLE OF CONTENTS  
Introduction to the URC1........................ 4  
How it works........................................... 5  
Tips and Notes....................................... 6  
Parts list ................................................. 7  
URC1 Assembly instructions .................. 8  
Initial testing ...........................................14  
Troubleshooting tips...............................15  
Hints and Using......................................16  
Setup......................................................19  
Charts and diagrams..............................20  
Control codes.........................................22  
Notes and passwords.............................27  
Connector Considerations......................28  
Expanding notes.....................................28  
Schematic diagram.................................29  
Parts Layout diagram .............................30  
Ramsey kit warranty...............................31  
RAMSEY ELECTRONICS, INC.  
793 Canning Parkway  
Victor, New York 14564  
Phone (716) 924-4560  
Fax (716) 924-4555  
URC1 3  
 
URC1 REMOTE CONTROL FEATURES:  
Six digit display for long codes  
Fast DTMF decoding time for fast automatic phone dialers  
Sensitive audio input for faint tones  
Tone feedback for confirmation of commands  
Accurate decoding, rejects dial tones and normal audio  
Small size, runs on 7 to 15 VDC.  
Fully microprocessor controlled for ease of use  
Has many features, and is fully expandable  
Included are 15 switched outputs, 4 adjustable voltage outputs  
(0-5VDC), 2 digital pots, and 3 real time timers that on and off times  
are adjustable from 10 ms to 40 hours.  
Expandable to 48 more switched outputs, and two more pots.  
Two levels of password protection, with a master as well as a user  
password.  
Everything is included to get the unit up and running, all that is  
required is a power supply, and some source of DTMF tones.  
Add our matching case and knob set for a finished "pro-look."  
INTRODUCTION TO THE RAMSEY URC1:  
The Ramsey URC1 is a microprocessor controlled remote control that uses  
DTMF for turning voltage levels up and down, pots up and down, timers on  
and off, and outputs on and off. It uses the 0-9 digits as well as the * and #  
digits of a DTMF encoder, but can also use A-D tones for password  
protection. Having two levels of password protection, the master (who owns  
or runs the URC) can prevent the user (anyone else) from changing the  
states of selected controls, which prevents a user from turning on something  
that does not need to be turned on. A six digit display shows the valid codes  
that were pressed, and shows errors along the way. The display blanks  
during passwords as well as when the unit is finished being accessed to save  
on power.  
NOTE TO NEWCOMERS: If you are a first time kit builder you may find this  
manual easier to understand than you may have expected. Each part in the  
kit is checked off as you go, while a detailed description of each part is given.  
If you are to follow each step in the manual in order, and practice good  
soldering and kit building skills, the kit is next to fail-safe. If a problem does  
occur, the manual will lead you through step by step in the troubleshooting  
guide until you find the problem and are able to correct it.  
URC1 4  
 
HOW THE URC1 WORKS:  
Take a look at the URC1's schematic diagram as we walk through the circuit.  
As you can see there is not much to the universal remote control, most of the  
work is internal to the IC's.  
The real heart of the circuit is U6 the microcontroller IC. This 20 pin IC can  
perform an amazing amount of tasks, quickly as well as reliably. This IC  
controls all of the outputs as well as the display, and also processes the  
codes decoded from U5, the tone decoder IC.  
U5, the tone decoder IC does most of the complicated work in this kit.  
Internally this chip has a set of counters that latch different outputs depending  
on the tones. The internal counters are referenced to a television colorburst  
crystal operating at 3.579 Mhz. This reference frequency is used also as the  
clock frequency to pin 10 of U5 the microprocessor.  
U1, and U3 are serial shift registers. Data is clocked into them bit by bit from  
the microprocessor, and then latched to the outputs by a change in state on  
the LDS line. One of the outputs from these chips is used to deliver a tone  
output for confirmation of commands.  
U4 is a digitally controlled dual potentiometer. A very versatile device, it can  
control volumes, levels, tuning on most Ramsey kits, thermostats, and  
whatever else a pot can be used in.  
U7 is a quad serial digital to analog converter. This provides the 0-5VDC  
levels in 256 steps. These levels can be used to control dimmers,  
thermostats, motor speed controllers, and anything else you can come up  
with.  
U2 is the display driver IC, this is also loaded serially with information to what  
the displays show. It controls six digits of the display as well as the error code  
LEDs.  
VR1 and the surrounding parts form a simple voltage regulator to supply a  
steady 5 VDC to the ICs in this circuit. By using this scheme, we can have a  
wide range of supply voltages, from 7 volts to 15 volts DC.  
URC1 5  
 
"THE RAMSEY LEARN AS YOU BUILD ASSEMBLY STRATEGY"  
Take a look at the parts layout diagram, there is quite a lot to the construction  
of the URC1. It's easier than it seems once you get going, and after you have  
placed a few of the "landmark" components. Other part's positions are  
referenced to them, and construction goes quite smoothly. This will help in  
relating from one part to another what specific holes a part may require on  
the board, and the part's orientation. In addition, we will discuss the purpose  
of most components or groups of components as we go along.  
Be sure to read through all the steps, and check the boxes as you go to be  
sure you didn't miss any important steps. Most of the problems we find here  
at the factory are due to faulty assembly - no matter how experienced the  
builder may be - it's especially tough to tell a 30 year experienced Ham that  
he goofed! Before you run the circuit, check all diodes and polarized  
capacitors for proper orientation.  
Tips and Notes:  
Use a good soldering technique - let your soldering iron tip gently heat the  
traces to which you are soldering, heat both wires and pads simultaneously.  
Apply the solder on the iron and the pad when the pad is hot enough to melt  
the solder. The finished joint should look like a drop of water on paper,  
somewhat soaked in.  
Parts are mounted on the top side of the board, which on this kit is the side  
marked TOP.  
IC sockets - A good practice, but not necessary in digital or low frequency  
circuits such as this. This prevents the horror of desoldering a bad or  
incorrectly placed IC.  
Part orientation - All parts in the kit are mounted at 90 degree angles to each  
other, meaning that all parts are either parallel or perpendicular to the board.  
Part installation - when parts are installed, the part is placed flat to the board,  
and the leads are bent on the backside of the board to prevent the part from  
falling out before soldering. The part is then soldered securely to the board,  
and the remaining lead length is clipped off. Some parts may have body paint  
on their leads, preventing the solder from making a firm bond. In this case,  
lightly scrape the paint away to allow the solder to make contact with the  
wire.  
URC1 6  
 
RAMSEY URC1 PARTS LIST:  
SEMICONDUCTORS  
1 7805 5 volt power regulator (VR1)  
1 145436 (or MC145436) 14 pin dip DTMF decoder IC (U5)  
1 68HC705J2 20 pin dip pre-programmed microcontroller  
(white sticker marked URC-1) (U6)  
1 MAX7219 24 pin dip 8 digit display driver (U2)  
1 MAX500 quad serial digital to analog converter (U7)  
2 74HC595 serial latched shift registers (U1,U3)  
1 DS1267 - 10 dual 10K digitally controlled potentiometer (U4)  
6 seven segment LED displays (DSP1,2,3,4,5,6)  
2 Red LEDs (D2,6)  
2 1N4002 black epoxy diodes (D9, D10)  
1 2N3904 NPN type transistor (Q2)  
1 221-334-211 PNP or equivalent transistor (Q1)  
CAPACITORS  
5 .01uF disk ceramic capacitors (marked .01 or 103 or 10 nF)  
(C2,5,7,10,11)  
1 .1uF disk ceramic capacitor (marked .1 or 104) (C8)  
1 470pF disk ceramic capacitor (marked 470 or 471) (C9)  
1 100uF to 220uF electrolytic capacitor (C15)  
3 10uF electrolytic capacitors (C4,6,13)  
1 47uF electrolytic capacitor (C14)  
RESISTORS  
2 10K ohm (brown-black-orange) (R1,2)  
4 47K ohm (yellow-violet-orange) (R4,5,6,7)  
1 1M ohm (brown-black-green) (R3)  
HARDWARE AND MISCELLANEOUS  
1 3.579 Mhz crystal (Marked 3.579 or 3.579264) (X1)  
1 1/8" PC mounted minijack (J1)  
1 Power jack (J2)  
1 Set hardware for regulator (1 screw and 1 nut)  
1 34 pin right angle connector (CON1)  
1 13 pin right angle connector (CON2)  
1 3.9VDC lithium backup battery (B1)  
1 Main PC board  
1 Display PC board  
1 20 Pin IC socket  
1 4 inches of #24 bus wire  
URC1 7  
 
CONSTRUCTION OF THE URC1:  
The first thing we will do with this kit is check all of our parts and pieces to  
make sure we have them all. Use the parts list and your layout diagram to do  
this. If there are any differences, make sure the schematic agrees with what  
you have, and also be aware of the tolerances parts have in a kit. Non-critical  
parts can vary quite a bit with almost no effect on kit operation. For example  
you may get 1uF capacitors in place of 10uF capacitors, or a 3.579 crystal in  
place of a 3.579545 crystal. No harm done as these will make no difference in  
kit operation. Note there are two boards in this kit, as we will start with the  
larger main board in our assembly. You may have to break apart the two  
boards depending on how they are shipped.  
ˆ
ˆ
1. Orient the circuit board as shown in the parts layout diagram.  
2. Install J1, the PC mounted 1/8" minijack. This is where you hook up the  
audio with the DTMF tones.  
ˆ
3. Install C14, a 47uF electrolytic capacitor. Electrolytic capacitors are  
polarized and must be installed correctly. They are usually marked with a  
black stripe and a ( - ) indicating their negative lead, while PC boards will  
usually indicate the ( + ) hole.  
At this point you may wish to make the decision of whether or not to use IC  
sockets to mount your ICs. Though they will add to the cost of your kit, they will  
prevent the horror of soldering in ICs the wrong direction, or the inability to  
easily replace a bad IC yourself. If you are a confident good kit builder, you  
wont have to worry about this.  
ˆ
4. Install U7, the 4 channel digital to analog converter (MAX 500, 16 dip).  
Pay extra close attention to the orientation of this device and make sure it  
is installed in the same direction as in the parts layout diagram. Notice the  
part has a tab or dimple representing pin 1. Also note that most if not all of  
these components are static sensitive so if you want to be cautious,  
ground your body with a clip lead to a ground such as an oscilloscope  
chassis. Make sure and practice good soldering skills, and keep an eye  
out for solder bridges or cold joints as you go.  
ˆ
5. Install C6, a 10uF electrolytic capacitor. Make sure and check polarity  
before soldering!  
ˆ
ˆ
6. Install R4, a 47K resistor (yellow-violet-orange).  
7. Install the 20 pin IC socket where U6 is to go, the microcontroller IC  
with the sticker marked URC1. Gently insert the U6 into the socket noting  
where pin 1 is. Pay close attention to the orientation of the tab on this part.  
URC1 8  
 
ˆ
ˆ
8. Install U4, the dual digitally controlled potentiometer (marked DS1267).  
Pay close attention again to the orientation of this part. This part as you  
will notice controls the position of the wiper on a 10K pot, and has very  
good linearity.  
9. Install U3, one of the 74HC595 serial shift registers. Each of these ICs  
control eight on/off outputs, and can be cascaded for up to 64 outputs on  
this kit. Check orientation.  
ˆ
ˆ
10. Install U1, the other 74HC595 serial shift register. Again check the  
orientation of this device.  
11. Install C2, a .01uF ceramic capacitor (marked .01, 10nF or 103).  
Notice that this type of capacitor has no polarity markings, and is not  
critical in installation.  
ˆ
ˆ
12. Install C13, a 10uF electrolytic capacitor. Pay close attention to it's  
polarity unlike the ceramic capacitor.  
13. Install C15, the larger 100uF to 220uF electrolytic capacitor. Check  
it's polarity before soldering. Electrolytic capacitors, if installed incorrectly  
have been known to operate poorly, get warm, and possibly even  
explode, so take caution when using these capacitors!  
ˆ
ˆ
14. Install D9, one of the 1N4002 diodes. These diodes are used to  
"steer" the supply voltage to the microcontroller. During normal operation,  
these diodes "steer" the voltage away from trying to recharge B1, and  
during power down, they "steer" the battery towards the microcontroller,  
and away from the other parts to save on power. Notice the white band on  
the diode, this is the cathode end. Make sure it's in the same orientation  
as the parts layout diagram shows.  
15. Install D10, the other 1N4002 diode. Pay close orientation to the  
orientation of the cathode (banded) end of the diode. These two diodes  
that you just installed cause the microcontroller to go into power down  
mode, thus preserving the memory so passwords and output options are  
not lost.  
ˆ
ˆ
16. Install Q1, a PNP type transistor marked 221-334-211. Note where  
the lettering is, this is not the flat side, the side without the lettering is!  
(You can tell since the larger flat side does not have the lettering.)  
17. Install B1, the 3.9V lithium battery. Note the case of this battery is  
positive, not ground and it fits in easily only one way.  
ˆ
ˆ
18. Install R2, a 10K ohm resistor (brown-black-orange).  
19. Install C8, a .1uF ceramic capacitor (marked .1 or 104). This causes  
the microcontroller to reset properly on power up.  
URC1 9  
 
ˆ
ˆ
20. Install C9, a 470pF ceramic capacitor (marked 470 or 471).  
21. Install VR1, the 7805 regulator into the the three holes provided in the  
board. The metallic portion of the regulator should face towards the tabbed  
side of the board. Gently bend the regulator over until the hole in the tab  
lines up with the hole in the PC board. Install the provided screw and nut  
through the hole as shown, and tighten the nut until the regulator is snug to  
the board. Then solder the three leads securely to the board.  
ˆ
ˆ
22. Install C7, a .01uF ceramic capacitor (marked .01, 103 or 10nF).  
23. Install X1, the 3.579Mhz crystal (silver can). Note that there are three  
holes provided for this crystal since there are a couple of sizes of the metal  
cans available. Note how it is placed in relation to the silk screen on the  
board. Mount X1 as flush to the board as possible.  
ˆ
24. Install R3 a 1M ohm resistor (brown-black-green).  
7805  
Shiny side  
Topside  
PC Board  
Nut  
Screw  
ˆ
25. Install U5, the 145436 tone decoder IC (14 pin dip marked  
MC145436). Make sure and double check it’s orientation before soldering.  
Also check for soldering mistakes before continuing.  
ˆ
ˆ
ˆ
ˆ
ˆ
ˆ
26. Install C4, a 10uF electrolytic capacitor. Check polarity!  
27. Install C5, a .01uF ceramic capacitor (marked .01, 103, or 10nF).  
28. Install C10, a .01uF ceramic capacitor (marked .01, 103, or 10nF).  
29. Install C11, a .01uF ceramic capacitor (marked .01, 103, or 10nF).  
30. Install R1, a 10K resistor (brown-black-orange).  
31. Install U2, the MAX7219 display driver (marked MAX7219). Check  
orientation and solder connections!  
ˆ
32. Install Q2, the NPN transistor marked 2N3904. Notice this time the  
lettered side is the flat side. Be sure and orient it the same as on the silk  
screen  
ˆ
ˆ
ˆ
33. Install R5, a 47K ohm resistor (yellow-violet-orange).  
34. Install R6, another 47K ohm resistor (yellow-violet-orange).  
35. Install R7, yet another 47K ohm resistor (yellow-violet-orange). The  
two preceding transistors and these three resistors assist the URC1 in  
URC1 10  
 
shutting itself down during a power down. They then allow the battery to  
take over memory retention of the data in the microcontroller.  
Now here comes the fun! Take your time on the next stages as they can make  
or break your kit. Don't be a bozo and rush assembly to get it done, hook it up,  
and then destroy it. Play it smart and have patience and your kit will make you  
proud when it works the first time!  
Locate the display board and orient it in the same direction in the parts layout  
diagram.  
ˆ
36. Install DSP1, one of the seven segment displays. Pay very close  
attention to where the decimal point is in reference to the notches on the  
board. Notice the decimal point faces the lower right of the board. This is  
where the soldering becomes difficult, the pads are very close to the  
traces, and solder bridges are easier to make. A small tipped soldering  
iron with a clean tip (wipe it often on a damp sponge) is required for best  
results. This is where patience really counts! Check and double check  
orientation before soldering, since desoldering on these fine traces will  
absolutely destroy them.  
ˆ
37. Hope you had a fun time doing the first display, now you get to do it  
five more times! Install DSP2 - DSP6 using the same technique as above.  
Start with DSP2 and in order end with DSP6. This prevents finger  
squeezing and much ranting and raving.  
ˆ
ˆ
38. Install D6 one of the red LEDs. Notice the longer of the two leads on  
the LED, this is the lead that is installed towards the displays.  
39. Install D2, the other red LED. Also notice that it is installed with the  
longer lead towards the displays.  
A
K
URC1 11  
 
Locate the main board again and we will finish it up.  
ˆ
ˆ
40. Install CON2, the thirteen pin connector. Insert it in the holes as  
shown in the diagram, making sure that the leads point to the back of the  
board.  
41. Install CON1, the 34 pin connector using the same procedure as  
before. This connector may consist of two pieces, one 20 pin and one 14  
pin connector. If so, place them together on the board to make one 34 pin  
connector. Check all of your solder joints on the two connectors before  
proceeding. Remember that you are responsible for damage that occurs to  
the output devices, so you don’t want to goof up!  
C O N 1  
&
2
M
A I N P C B O A R D  
Now here comes some more fun! First check over all of your connections on  
the display board as well as the main board, you sure wouldn't want to come  
this far to make a mistake! Now it's time to join the two boards together.  
ˆ
42. Notice the holes in the main board and the display board where JMP-  
A and JMP-B are located. Cut the piece of thick bus wire in two. Using the  
two pieces of bus wire, install the jumpers to hold the main board and the  
display boards at 90 degree angles to each other. Notice how there are  
notches in the main board and display board to assist in aligning them.  
Use the notches to align the display board with the main board, note how  
the display board is mounted with the displays facing away from the main  
board.  
Support  
wire  
Solder  
fillet  
Main  
board  
Display  
URC1 12  
 
ˆ
43. The display board mounts at a right angle to the main board with  
solder pads providing both mechanical support and electrical connection  
between the two boards. The display board is placed against the main  
board so that the solder pads on the display board line up with the solder  
pads on the main board. Solder the display board pads flush with the main  
board pads. Check to be sure the two boards are perpendicular and not  
tilted, then solder all remaining pads. Use enough solder to provide a good  
mechanical connection, but don’t cause any solder bridges between  
adjacent pads.  
Main PC board  
Display PC board  
Solder fillet betw een PC  
boards  
ˆ
44. A last minute addition: Install J2, the DC power jack. This is where the  
7-15VDC will be applied upon power up.  
URC1 13  
 
Congratulations you have just finished the entire URC1 kit! Now all that we  
have to do is some initial testing and setup.  
INITIAL TESTING:  
To begin our initial tests, we need a few missing pieces to complete the whole  
remote control system. These are:  
A radio, or a DTMF dialer or generator, or a DTMF telephone with  
an audio tap (see hints on building an audio tap).  
Suitable connectors for power, audio and outputs.  
A 7-15 volt DC power supply or battery.  
A multimeter or oscilloscope.  
ˆ
1. Verify that all parts are mounted and soldered in the correct places, and  
there are no solder bridges or cold solder joints on both the main board  
and the display board.  
ˆ
ˆ
2. Connect the audio source with the DTMF tones to J1 of your kit.  
3. Apply power to your URC1. Make sure that the center connector of the  
jack you use is POSITIVE. On first time power up the memory is cleared  
out, and so are the passwords. Also a display test is performed, so the  
entire display should light for about one second before blanking. If the  
display never lights or is erratic, consult the trouble shooting section of this  
manual and unhook the power immediately.  
ˆ
ˆ
4. Generate an “* M” or a * 6 on the touch tone phone for the master  
password. The display should light up with zeros.  
5. Generate a “*0” for oper and then 087 or “0TS” for testing. This mode  
sets all of your timers on, and all of the outputs vary so a change can be  
noticed. Notice that if this mode is performed during normal operation the  
memories are changed and not restored when finished. This mode also  
sets all of the displays on.  
ˆ
6. Use an oscilloscope, multimeter, logic probe, or some other form of  
indication to verify that all of the outputs are varying, as well as  
independently from each other. The outputs should switch from 0 to +5  
volts, the levels should vary from 0 to +5 volts, the resistance between the  
wiper and low or high side of the pots should vary from near zero ohms to  
10K ohms. The timers should vary from near 5 volts to 0 volts.  
If you have made it this far with your kit and have had no problems, you’re all  
set to go! If not, consult the troubleshooting guide in the manual to determine  
the cause of the problem and how to go about solving it.  
URC1 14  
 
TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:  
PROBLEM: None of the displays light, VR1 regulator gets hot fast.  
SOLUTION: You likely have a short across the power supply or you have a  
component placed in the incorrect orientation. Check all of your parts to  
make sure they correlate with those in the parts layout diagram. Also  
check your power supply polarity to make sure that the polarity is  
correct.  
PROBLEM: None of the displays light, but VR1 remains cool.  
SOLUTION: Using an oscilloscope or a frequency counter, verify that there is  
a 3.579 Mhz signal on pin 10 of U5 and pin 1 of U6 of approximately .5  
volts peak to peak or greater. If you cannot check this, check pin 9 of  
U6 for 4 to 5 volts DC. Also check pin 19 of U2 for 5 VDC. If not, check  
VR1 for 5 volts output with at least 7 volts input.  
PROBLEM: Some displays and segments light, others do not when I run all  
eights into the unit.  
SOLUTION: There is only two possibilities for this problem. First check with a  
magnifier to verify that there are no shorts or cold solder joints on the  
display board behind the displays. Also check the interface between the  
two boards to make sure everything has been done correctly. Second,  
you may have a faulty display. Since this is very unlikely, check all of  
your solder joints again to make sure they are OK. If everything is fine,  
then see the warranty section of the manual.  
PROBLEM: Everything is OK, but no tones can be detected.  
SOLUTION: Check around U4 and J1 for bad solder joints. Also make sure  
that your crystal is marked 3.579 and not some other number. Also  
check your audio connections and the audio level to the unit.  
PROBLEM: Levels don’t go all the way up to 5 volts.  
SOLUTION: This was necessary on the kit to allow all 256 steps to be noticed.  
If a higher output voltage is required, remove D11 and put a jumper in  
it’s place. Now you will notice that a value entered from 245 on up  
represents full scale.  
PROBLEM: Outputs only go to half voltage, some outputs don’t work at all,  
resistance values don’t change.  
SOLUTION: More than likely this is an assembly error, usually solder bridges  
or cold solder joints surrounding CON1 and CON2. A fine tip soldering  
iron and solder wick will help you to remedy these problems, as well as  
patience and good troubleshooting skills.  
URC1 15  
 
PROBLEM: The thing just doesn't work! It must be the engineer's fault!  
SOLUTION: We make absolutely sure that our products work beyond  
expectations before the kits leave our doors. If you can't solve the  
problem, send in the kit, if it's our fault the fix charge is free. Read the  
warranty information in the back of the manual for more information.  
USING YOUR URC1  
There is so many things you can do with a kit of this nature, that we will only  
go into some of the possibilities. Many more things can be done with it than  
what is being shown, just use some of the basic principles shown here and  
your imagination and you will be churning out the projects that will even  
impress the experts!  
Connecting a relay to a switched output:  
Once connected to the relay, the URC1 can turn a number of devices on and  
off, such as home security systems, lights, answering machine, lawn watering  
system, swimming pool filters, etc. Be sure the coil on the relay has a  
resistance of no less than 100 ohms to be safe. If it is less, use a transistor  
with a higher power dissipation rating.  
Using a Level output as an isolated Variable Resistor:  
This is a simple, yet useful way of isolating the URC1 from the unit being  
controlled. This setup will work well for any circuit (within current limits) that  
requires a variable resistance. For example this can be used to control a form  
of squelch on a radio called level detection. This simple circuit can be used in  
URC1 16  
 
place of the pot presently in a circuit with this method of squelching. Also good  
in voltage divider networks, and current controls. Notice other versions of  
these opto-isolators can be used to isolate the switched outputs also.  
The other method of squelch control uses the quieting phenomena during  
reception of a signal to open the squelch. When there is not a signal there is  
plenty of random noise received, especially high frequency noise. This high  
frequency noise is used to close the squelch when the quieting effect is not  
present. With this method all that is needed is the three pot connections on  
the URC1 in place of the pot that previously controlled the squelch. These  
variable pots can also replace the level detection method by tying the wiper  
output to the high output.  
To use the variable pots:  
This is the simplest way of controlling signal levels such as volumes, voltages,  
powers, etc. Always tie the common ground of the URC1 to the common on  
the unit you are trying to control. If you are worried about the common on the  
unit to be controlled not being isolated, run the URC1 off of an isolated power  
supply. Using this method should protect the URC1 from damage from  
grounding errors. L0 does not have to be tied to common, but must not go  
lower in voltage than the common of your URC1.  
To use a Level Output as a Variable Power Supply or Voltage Source:  
This configuration allows a user to adjust a 12VDC-18VDC unregulated power  
supply to a 0-10VDC regulated supply. The regulation in this case is limited to  
how well the URC1’s regulator is operating. Parts can be modified in value to  
URC1 17  
 
change voltage output levels as well as current ratings. Note with larger  
currents that you should provide a heat sink on Q1. To change the maximum  
voltage output, use the formula:  
Vout =5*(1 + R2/R1)  
There are plenty of ways to use the outputs of the URC1 to control different  
circuits, devices, and run equipment. These basic ideas given will get you  
started on developing your own remote control system. If you want more ideas  
or more detail on how to hook up these circuits, consult some of the  
electronics magazines available at the supermarket, or go to your local library.  
These sources are usually loaded with great ideas for interfacing the types of  
output provided here with the external world!  
Building a Telephone Audio Tap:  
Through this method the user can tap the DTMF tone off of a telephone line.  
This is the simplest of methods to interface the URC1 to the telephone lines.  
Notice though you will need some sort of answering device such as a  
message machine to pick up the phone. If the phone is not off the hook, this  
circuit will not pick up any audio.  
Inserting Audio output into the phone line:  
To J1 Tone in  
This is how you are able to insert the confirmation tones into the telephone  
line so that when you are dialing from a remote location you can hear the  
URC1 talk back to you, and let you know that a code was correctly received  
and processed. You may also receive tones as well with this circuit. Notice it is  
in parallel with the phone line instead of series like the previous circuit.  
URC1 18  
 
From confirm out  
From CON1 pin 33  
Setting up the URC1:  
These are some general ideas for setting up the URC1 for either a multiple  
user remote control, or a protected mode of operation. We will start from very  
first power up, all the way to leaving the URC1 to do it’s stuff. If you are  
interested in more details about the codes used refer to the the section on  
URC1 command codes.  
1. Power up and test the URC1 as instructed in the initial testing section of  
the manual.  
2. Hook up any of the peripherals that you may want to control such as  
lamps, radios, alarm systems etc. Make sure commons on circuits are  
connected properly to the URC1.  
3. Enter in as a master user using *6. Use your tone generator to set the  
devices you want to exclude from the user, such as the alarm system. Use  
the control codes in the rear of the manual for instructions.  
4. Set your initial values, check everything out for proper operation.  
5. Set the user password, which is limited to three characters, and then the  
master password which is limited to four. Make sure and write these down. If  
you forget them, you have to disconnect the power and remove the battery to  
reset them.  
6. Press *3 to tell the URC-1 that you are finished. At this point the URC-1  
will blank it’s display, and wait for the password of a user or master to access  
it again. If a user is to access it, the items that you disabled by excluding  
them cannot be changed. Only the master can change them now.  
URC1 19  
 
Charts and Diagrams:  
Display Conventions:  
0
8
9
1
2
3
A
B
4
5
6
7
C
D
#
*
Pinouts of CON2:  
Pin #  
Name  
Description  
1
2
3
5
6
7
8
9
10  
11  
12  
13  
14  
GND  
GND  
LDS  
Ground  
Ground  
Load Shift Registers  
Serial Clock  
Ground  
CLK  
GND  
DATA  
GND  
LDP  
GND  
COUT  
QH’  
Serial Data  
Ground  
Load Pots  
Ground  
Pots Serial Out  
Shift Registers Out  
+5V  
+5V  
+5V  
+5V  
Note: This jack is not used unless you plan on expanding your kit for more  
control pots and outputs.  
URC1 20  
 
This is a table showing the signal available at each pin of CON1, the access  
number for which the pin is accessed and changed, the group number for  
disabling and enabling, description, name, and range of output. “?” indicates  
a variable number.  
Pin # Name Device # Description  
Access #  
Range  
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
VoutD  
VoutA  
VoutC  
VoutB  
+5V  
+12V  
GND  
T2  
T0  
T1  
W1  
H1  
L1  
L0  
H0  
W0  
GND  
1,7  
0,7  
1,6  
0,6  
1,5  
0,5  
1,4  
0,4  
1,3  
0,3  
1,2  
0,2  
1,1  
0,1  
1,0  
Tone  
GND  
15  
12  
14  
13  
-
-
-
18  
16  
17  
9
9
9
8
8
8
-
1
0
1
0
1
0
1
0
1
0
1
0
1
0
1
-
-
Level 3  
Level 0  
Level 2  
*53???  
*50???  
*52???  
*51???  
-
0-5V, 256 steps  
0-5V, 256 steps  
0-5V, 256 steps  
0-5V, 256 steps  
5V  
Level 1  
V source  
V source  
Common  
Timer 2  
Timer 0  
Timer 1  
Pot 1 Wiper  
Pot 1 High  
Pot 1 Low  
Pot 0 Low  
Pot 0 High  
Pot 0 Wiper  
Common  
Output  
Output  
Output  
Output  
Output  
Output  
Output  
Output  
Output  
Output  
Output  
Output  
Output  
Output  
Output  
Tone out  
Common  
-
-
12V  
0V  
*T2??*??*  
*T0??*??*  
*T1??*??*  
*21???  
Not adjusted 0-10K, 256 steps  
Not adjusted 0-10K, 256 steps  
Not adjusted 0-10K, 256 steps  
Not adjusted 0-10K, 256 steps  
10mS to 40H  
10mS to 40H  
10mS to 40H  
0-10K, 256 steps  
9
10  
11  
12  
13  
14  
15  
16  
17  
18  
19  
20  
21  
22  
23  
24  
25  
26  
27  
28  
29  
30  
31  
32  
33  
34  
*20???  
-
0-10K, 256 steps  
0V  
*617?  
*607?  
*616?  
*606?  
*615?  
*605?  
*614?  
*604?  
*613?  
*603?  
*612?  
*602?  
*611?  
*601?  
*610?  
*600?  
-
5V on off  
5V on off  
5V on off  
5V on off  
5V on off  
5V on off  
5V on off  
5V on off  
5V on off  
5V on off  
5V on off  
5V on off  
5V on off  
5V on off  
5V on off  
Confirm Out  
0V  
Note: Pin 33 can be accessed as an output, but its value will change every time  
a code is received and a tone is sent, therefore it is not recommended to be  
used as an output other than for generating tones.  
URC1 21  
 
URC1 Control Codes:  
The codes on the URC1 are very simple to use as well as comprehensive.  
Codes have been laid out so that the letters on a touch tone phone represent  
the action that you desire. Note that all codes begin with an asterisk. This was  
done to prevent the normal dialing of a phone or some other device from  
accessing the unit.  
[ ] indicates not required or variable length.  
{ } indicates one character  
To access the URC1:  
For master access:  
*M[Password]* or *6[Password]*  
Where master password length is at most 4 characters.  
This code replies with two long tones indicating “M”  
For user access:  
*U[Password]* or *8[Password]*  
Where user password length is at most 3 characters.  
This code replies with two shorts and a Long to indicate “U”  
Ex:  
*M123*  
Note that if no password has been set for either, the last asterisk is left off.  
To set the password:  
To set the master password:  
*PM[Password]* or *76[Password]*  
Where maximum password length is 4 characters. Entering no characters for  
password disables the password.  
This code replies with a short then long tone to indicate “A” for acknowledge.  
To set the user password:  
*PU[Password]* or *78[Password]*  
Where maximum password length is 3 characters. Entering no characters for  
password disables the password.  
This code replies with a short then long tone to indicate “A” for acknowledge.  
Note that you must be entered as a master to change these.  
To set an output on or off:  
To turn an output on:  
*0{output set #}{Output #}1 or *6{output set #}{Output #}1  
This code replies with a short then long tone to indicate “A” for acknowledge.  
URC1 22  
 
To turn an output off:  
*0{output set #}{Output #}0 or *6{output set #}{Output #}0  
This code replies with a short then long tone to indicate “A” for acknowledge.  
Note that the last one or zero denotes on and off respectfully. Note there is  
only eight output sets (0-7) and eight outputs per set (0-7). Any number  
entered over seven causes an error and the command is aborted. Also note  
that output 0,0 is used as a confirm tone output. In other words don’t use it as  
an output unless it is to generate a tone.  
To set a Level:  
To set directly:  
*L{Level #}[0-255] or *5{Level #}[0-255]  
Using this method you can quickly set any level you desire. For example if you  
want 2.5 volts out, enter 127 for the level, and if you want the full 5 volts enter  
255. Three numbers must be entered for the level.  
This code replies with a short then long tone to indicate “A” for acknowledge.  
1/4 scale example on level output 0:  
*50064  
Where 5 is the command code, 0 is the device code, and 064 is the value.  
To vary the level down:  
*L{Level #}* or *5{Level #}*  
Press and hold the last asterisk to keep decreasing the level. The level stops  
decreasing at a value of zero. When it has reached zero, the URC1 replies  
with a short then long tone to indicate “A” for acknowledge.  
To vary the level up:  
*L{Level #}# or *5{Level #}#  
Press and hold the pound sign to keep increasing the level. The level stops at  
a value of 255. When it has reached 255, the URC1 replies with a short then  
long tone to indicate “A” for acknowledge.  
Note that there is only four level outputs (0-3), so any value over 3 will cause  
an error and the command will be aborted. Also any value over 255 in the  
level code will do the same.  
To set a Control Pot:  
This method is almost identical to setting the levels except for the command  
code.  
To set directly:  
*C{Level #}[0-255] or *2{Level #}[0-255]  
Using this method you can quickly set any resistance you desire. For example  
if you want 5K ohms at the wiper, enter 127 for the resistance, and if you want  
the full 10K ohms, enter 255. Three numbers must be entered for the level.  
The URC1 replies with a short then long tone to indicate “A” for acknowledge.  
3/4 scale example on resistor 1:  
*21192  
URC1 23  
 
Where 2 is the command code, 1 is the device code, and 192 is the value.  
To vary the resistance down: *C{Level #}* or *2{Level #}*  
Press and hold the last asterisk to keep decreasing the resistance. The  
resistance stops decreasing at a value of zero (near zero ohms).  
The URC1 replies with a short then long tone when at zero to indicate “A” for  
acknowledge.  
To vary the resistance up:  
*C{Level #}# or *2{Level #}#  
Press and hold the pound sign to keep increasing the resistance. The  
resistance stops at a value of 255 (10K ohms). The URC1 replies with a short  
then long tone at a value of 255 to indicate “A” for acknowledge.  
Note that there are only four pot controls (0-3) possible, though only two  
provided on this kit, so any value over 3 will cause an error and the command  
will be aborted. Also any value over 255 in the pot value code will do the  
same.  
To set a Timer:  
*T{Timer #}tt[*][ss][*][mm][*][hh] tt[*][ss][*][mm][*][hh] or  
*8{Timer #}tt[*][ss][*][mm][*][hh] tt[*][ss][*][mm][*][hh]  
(.........Time off.......) (.........Time on.........)  
tt indicates hundredths of a second, ss indicates seconds, mm indicates  
minutes, and hh indicates hours. Where Timer # is 0-2; tt, ss, mm, and hh are  
values from 00-99. Any value over these will cause an error and the command  
will be aborted. Notice that pressing an asterisk at the end of tt, ss, or mm will  
end the command for that part of the timing cycle. For example pressing:  
*8201*01*  
will set timer 2 on for 10mS and off for 10mS. To set on and off for 1 hour  
press:  
*820000000100000001  
Note there are no asterisks at the end of each time. This makes entering  
easier since all of the times are entered anyhow. The only time you need to  
press the ending asterisk is when you plan on not entering the hours.  
After each time is set, the URC1 replies with a short then long tone to indicate  
“A” for acknowledge. When you are done entering the URC1 replies with a  
short then long tone to indicate “A” for acknowledge so that two “A”s are sent  
upon completion. Try it out to see how it works  
Some more examples:  
To set timer2 on for 120mS and off for 12 hours, 35 minutes:  
*820000351212*  
URC1 24  
 
To set timer1 on for 35 hours 12seconds, and off fore 10mS:  
*8101*00120035  
Hook up some LEDs as shown with series resistors to the timer outputs, and  
then experiment a bit to see how this method works. Have patience as these  
codes take a little time to get used to.  
For the master user to exclude devices from the user:  
To exclude:  
*X[00-18]1  
To include:  
*X[00-18]0  
The access number is found on the chart with the pinouts of CON1. Since  
there is only 19 devices (0-18), any number over 18 is rejected and the  
command is aborted.  
The URC1 replies with a short then long tone to indicate “A” for acknowledge.  
Example to turn timer 2 off from the user:  
*9181  
Where 9 is the control code, 18 is the device number, and 1 disables the  
device from the user changing it. Notice of course that you must be entered as  
a master user to change these settings. Entering a 1 disables, and a 0  
enables.  
Special codes:  
Resetting the entire unit:  
Reset the display only:  
*0000  
Clear all:  
*0CAL or *0252  
URC1 25  
 
Note that this command can be dangerous as it clears out everything,  
passwords as well as output settings. This command will only work if you’re  
entered as a master user.  
The URC1 replies with a short then long tone to indicate “A” for acknowledge.  
Testing the URC1:  
*00TS or *0087  
This command is also dangerous, but it does not destroy the passwords. It  
only alters the outputs. This command is only meant to be used for testing and  
identification of problems. This code is only available to the master user.  
The URC1 replies with a short then long tone to indicate “A” for acknowledge  
and then begins testing.  
Done Accessing the URC1:  
*D or *3  
This command blanks out the display to save on power, and exits the user  
mode. The URC1 then waits for the next valid password to light the displays  
and begin work again.  
The URC1 replies with two longs then a short tone to indicate “G” for goodbye.  
Other tones:  
The URC1 will return a long then short tone to indicate an error in entry such  
as password protected, numbers that are too large, and accidental keystrokes  
during entry of a code. Otherwise the URC1 just ignores you if there is no  
valid code entered.  
URC1 26  
 
Notes and Passwords:  
Password  
1234  
Master/User  
M
Date  
URC #  
1
6-5-94  
Device Name  
Lamp  
User Mask #  
0
Code for Access  
*601?  
Notes  
? indicates 1 or 0  
URC1 27  
 
Connector considerations :  
Upon design of this kit we determined that we would use standard  
size connectors for interface. We ended up using connector cables from PCs  
to determine what sizes you may have laying around at home, or available at  
the local electronics store. Connector 1 uses a 34 pin connector, which is  
common on most hard drives, and connector 2 uses a 14 pin connector which  
was a common size in the stores near here.  
To connect these up you can bring the wires of the ribbon cable out to  
a connector board that you devise yourself, or add on some wire to run  
directly to the device you wish to control. Use the look up tables on pages 20  
and 21 to determine what wires go where. Note that pin 1 and wire one are  
marked so that you don’t get confused.  
Expanding Notes:  
If you decide to expand your URC1 to take full advantage of the  
number of outputs it may control, notice how almost all of the chips in this kit  
are serially accessed. They all work in much the same way as a serial latching  
shift register, so all that needs to be done is to cascade the devices. (We will  
leave this up to you to figure out and experiment with). Note that U1 and U3  
are already in the cascaded form (you can use their example to expand the  
number of outputs). If you don’t feel too confident in doing it yourself, we will  
be coming out with an expansion kit in the near future.  
URC1 28  
 
URC-1 PARTS LAYOUT DIAGRAM  
URC1 29  
 
The Ramsey Kit Warranty  
Please read carefully BEFORE calling or writing in about your kit. Most problems can be  
solved without contacting the factory.  
Notice that this is not a "fine print" warranty. We want you to understand your rights and ours to! All  
Ramsey kits will work if assembled properly. The very fact that your kit includes this new manual is your  
assurance that a team of knowledgeable people have field-tested several "copies" of this kit straight  
from the Ramsey Inventory. If you need help, please read through your manual carefully, all information  
required to properly build and test your kit is contained within the pages!  
1. DEFECTIVE PARTS: It's always easy to blame a part for a problem in your kit, Before you conclude  
that a part may be bad, thoroughly check your work. Today's semiconductors and passive components  
have reached incredibly high reliability levels, and its sad to say that our human construction skills have  
not! But on rare occasion a sour component can slip through. All our kit parts carry the Ramsey  
Electronics Warranty that they are free from defects for a full ninety (90) days from the date of  
purchase. Defective parts will be replaced promptly at our expense. If you suspect any part to be  
defective, please mail it to our factory for testing and replacement. Please send only the defective part  
(s), not the entire kit. The part(s) MUST be returned to us in suitable condition for testing. Please be  
aware that testing can usually determine if the part was truly defective or damaged by assembly or  
usage. Don't be afraid of telling us that you 'blew-it', we're all human and in most cases, replacement  
parts are very reasonably priced.  
2. MISSING PARTS: Before assuming a part value is incorrect, check the parts listing carefully to see if  
it is a critical value such as a specific coil or IC, or whether a RANGE of values is suitable (such as "100  
to 500 uF"). Often times, common sense will solve a mysterious missing part problem. If you're missing  
five 10K ohm resistors and received five extra 1K resistors, you can pretty much be assured that the '1K  
ohm' resistors are actually the 'missing' 10 K parts ("Hum-m-m, I guess the 'red' band really does look  
orange!") Ramsey Electronics project kits are packed with pride in the USA. If you believe we packed  
an incorrect part or omitted a part clearly indicated in your assembly manual as supplied with the basic  
kit by Ramsey, please write or call us with information on the part you need and proof of kit purchase  
3. FACTORY REPAIR OF ASSEMBLED KITS:  
To qualify for Ramsey Electronics factory repair, kits MUST:  
1. NOT be assembled with acid core solder or flux.  
2. NOT be modified in any manner.  
3. BE returned in fully-assembled form, not partially assembled.  
4. BE accompanied by the proper repair fee. No repair will be undertaken until we have received the  
MINIMUM repair fee (1/2 hour labor) of $18.00, or authorization to charge it to your credit card  
account.  
5. INCLUDE a description of the problem and legible return address. DO NOT send a separate letter;  
include all correspondence with the unit. Please do not include your own hardware such as  
non-Ramsey cabinets, knobs, cables, external battery packs and the like. Ramsey Electronics,  
Inc., reserves the right to refuse repair on ANY item in which we find excessive problems or  
damage due to construction methods. To assist customers in such situations, Ramsey  
Electronics, Inc., reserves the right to solve their needs on a case-by-case basis.  
The repair is $36.00 per hour, regardless of the cost of the kit. Please understand that our technicians  
are not volunteers and that set-up, testing, diagnosis, repair and repacking and paperwork can take  
nearly an hour of paid employee time on even a simple kit. Of course, if we find that a part was  
defective in manufacture, there will be no charge to repair your kit (But please realize that our  
technicians know the difference between a defective part and parts burned out or damaged through  
improper use or assembly).  
4. REFUNDS: You are given ten (10) days to examine our products. If you are not satisfied, you may  
return your unassembled kit with all the parts and instructions and proof of purchase to the factory for a  
full refund. The return package should be packed securely. Insurance is recommended. Please do not  
cause needless delays, read all information carefully.  
URC1 30  
 
URC1 UNIVERSAL REMOTE CONTROL  
Quick Reference Page Guide  
Introduction to the URC1...................................... 4  
Parts list............................................................... 7  
URC1 Assembly instructions................................ 8  
Initial testing......................................................... 14  
Troubleshooting tips............................................. 15  
Setup................................................................... 19  
Notes and passwords .......................................... 27  
Connector Considerations.................................... 28  
Schematic diagram .............................................. 29  
Parts Layout diagram........................................... 30  
Ramsey kit warranty ............................................ 31  
REQUIRED TOOLS  
TOTAL SOLDER POINTS  
324  
Soldering Iron (Radio Shack #RS64-2072)  
Thin Rosin Core Solder (RS64-025)  
Needle Nose Pliers (RS64-1844)  
ESTIMATED ASSEMBLY  
TIME  
Beginner .............. 8.5 hrs  
Intermediate......... 5.5 hrs  
Advanced............. 4.0 hrs  
Small Diagonal Cutters (RS64-1845)  
<OR> Complete Soldering Tool Set  
(RS64-2801)  
ADDITIONAL SUGGESTED ITEMS  
Soldering Iron Holder/Cleaner (RS64-2078)  
Holder for PC Board/Parts (RS64-2094)  
Desoldering Braid (RS-2090)  
Price: $5.00  
Ramsey Publication No. MURC1  
Assembly and Instruction manual for:  
RAMSEY MODEL NO. URC1 UNIVERSAL  
REMOTE CONTROL KIT  
RAMSEY ELECTRONICS, INC.  
793 Canning Parkway  
Printed on recycled paper  
Victor, New York 14564  
Phone (716) 924-4560  
Fax (716) 924-4555  
 

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